Incorporation of Cro thermal water in a dermocosmetic formulation: cytotoxicity effects, characterization and stability studies and efficacy evaluation

OBJECTIVE: Development of cosmetic formulations to provide a controlled release of hydrophilic active compounds from mineral medicinal waters constitutes an attractive challenge. The objective of this study was the development and the characterization of a dermocosmetic gel formulation with Cro thermal water, from Beira Interior of Portugal, as a major functional ingredient. METHODS: Concentrations of mineral chemical elements of Cro thermal water were previously determined by inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectrometry or mass spectrometry and cytotoxicity assays using thermal water were carried out on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) cells. Then, the Cro thermal water was included (more than 90%) in a developed gel formulation that was characterized through rheological and texture analysis and submitted to stability assays during 30 days. The effects on the skin volunteers, namely skin pH, the degree of hydration, transepidermal water loss and skin relief, were evaluated through non-invasive biometric techniques. A gel formulation including purified water was used as a control. RESULTS: Cro thermal water is rich on several chemical elements in particular sodium, silica, potassium and calcium besides some trace elements, with important functions for the skin. NHDF cells adhered and proliferated in the presence of thermal water confirming the biocompatibility of the major component of the gel formulation. The developed gel formulation based on thermal water resulted in an improvement of textural parameters, comparing with the purified water-based one. Significant improvements in the cutaneous biometric parameters (degree of hydration, transepidermal water loss and skin relief) of volunteers were also registered for the gel formulation containing thermal water. CONCLUSION: This study demonstrated for the first time the potential benefits of Cro thermal water in a gel formulation to be used in cosmetic and dermatological applications.